Mexico
March - April, 2005
I did this trip solo. Here is Iztaccihuatl at the end of the climbing season with its minimum snow cover. Enjoying acclimatization from all my winter expeditions I climbed Izta and Orizaba in 3 days and did them in record time (for me) without consciously trying.

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On Tuesday 3/29 I left the Trailhead (12,926') at 9:00 AM with the intention of doing an acclimatization hike. This picture shows the hut at 15,500.(IMG 0496). I wasn't really feeling the altitude so I kept going.
Here is Popocatepetl spewing steam with part of Izta in the foreground.

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When I reached the knees, I was already thinking of going for the summit but I had to really think twice when I saw those big clouds building near the summit. As spring temperatures get warmer chances of lightning storms increase on the Mexican volcanoes. I decided to go on and be ready to escape down the Ayoloco Glacier if a storm started.
This is what's left now a days of the once huge Knees glacier (and people still doubt there is global warming?!!!)

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Here is the Ayoloco Glacier with the summit on the left.
Looking back there's Popo in the background, the knees, and the knees glacier (now that I'm looking from the other side) with some crevasses showing.

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By now I am going very fast, crossing the Ayoloco glacier. The clouds are looking like a lightning storm is going to start soon, and I want to bag the peak and get off it as soon as possible.
Here is looking back at the Ayoloco glacier once I crossed it. I'm close to the summit and climbing fast.

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Here I am at the summit, in a personal record time (5 hrs from La Joya Trailhead).
Here is a look south from the summit. Compare this photo to the home page photo to see the different conditions at the beginning of the season (early Nov 2004) and the end (late March 2005).

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Here is a panoramic view of the Belly. Izta's largest glacier formed in what seems to be the main crater of this ancient volcano. The summit up to a few years ago used to be near the northern edge of this glacier. Now that the glacier has melted substantially is where I am standing (on dirt) to take the picture at the southern edge.

This glacier is, in my estimation, the largest in mass in Mexico now.
Going back I snapped this picture of what remains of the knees hut. In the background is Popocateptl. Popo's glaciers have now melted completely largely due to its volcanic activity. The difference in the last 6 years is dramatic. Here at the end of the season is seen without any snow to speak of. A very strange sight!

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Back at La Joya (the trailhead), I checked the time and was happy to see it took me only 7 and half hours to do the round trip.
Still in La Joya with a beautiful sunset behind me. The end of a good day!

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Roughy 24 hrs later I camped at the base of the south face at a place called La Cueva del Muerto (deadman's cave). This is as far as my little Volkswagen Pointer could make it. My car was driven down by someone else to Texmalaquilla since this is not a safe place to leave your car.

Sadly the towns to the south of Orizaba are a lot poorer and unfortunately a lot of people have had problems with cars being broken into. Also unfortunately my car was driven down with my gloves in it! which made for a really interesting adventure, read on...

Since I did not have my gloves I left later to take advantage of the warmer hours of the day. This was my first ascent up Orizaba's seldom climbed southern route (it seems non-mexicans rarely climb this side). I had to start at this lower trailhead to make it in one day from the south.

La Cueva del Muerto is at 13,320'. That is more than 5000 vertical feet from the summit (18,400'). A long day and a late start. Not a good combination but without gloves (all I had were my liners) it was my only choice.

After less than an hour of walking the sun started coming out.
An hour later I am approaching the hut at 15,288'.

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Here is the hut with some (literally) happy campers that were satisfied to make it this high and after a less than pleasant night (due to the altitude I'd guess) they were going back down that afternoon.
   
Here is looking at the endless scree of the southern face. That is right, You can climb Orizaba without Ice Axe or crampons! (little known fact) It's hard work though.
For me it was exciting since it was like climbing a new 18,000' peak but ending up at the same old summit I knew from so many times before.

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As you can see from the previous picture, the weather started closing in on me. This was the price to pay for the late season and late morning start. As I climbed into the clouds the temperature droped to the 20's and my hands started to freeze. By chance I found an old sock, someone had left up there and I cut it in two and wrapped it around my hands. This provided a little bit of insulation, which helped.

Here is a picture of my new glove.

I knew very near the top of this route there is the wreck of a Cessna that crashed years ago. As I climbed higher I found one of the wings.

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As I gained elevation my hands got cold again and I started to seriously consider turning around, and then to my surprise I find among the rocks (granted I was looking for anything! that'd help) a curtain! A woolen curtain belonging to the airplane higher above.

I made myself a couple of mittens out of the material and this is what they looked like.

I laughed thinking what Eduardo Strauch (Andes Survivor-see discovery) was going to think about this when I'd see him days later. (He was pretty amused by this and said it totally reminded him of his ordeal). This solved my problem at last. My hands were warm, and my design worked to the point of being able to scramble up the rocks with them on.


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At last, above 18,000' I reached the Airplane. Here are some pictures of the wreck.

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Here I am next to the propeller, and the wreck behind me.
Another picture of the wreck.
After spending about 20 minutes examining and photographing the wreck I moved on to finish my ascent up this route. When I hit the summit, there was nothing to be seen.

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The summit of Citlaltepetl (El Pico de Orizaba 18,405').
Looking into the crater.

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A picture of the summit cross and paraphernalia.
As I was about to leave the summit, the sky cleared up just above me for a brief instant and I snatched this picture.

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My descent was very fast on all that scree. As I cleared the clouds at about 17,000' I took this picture of my descent route ahead. That is a lot of scree to descend!
My round trip time ended up being 8 hours and 55 minutes. That is including the 20 mins I spent examining the crash site. This has been my fastest time up Orizaba even though I started a lot lower than we do up the north side (14,000'). I love guiding people up this mountain, but going fast, light and solo on this trip was a nice change for once.

The last picture is of my new friends from Texmalaquilla. Their father is standing behind and is the one who drove my car down and back up to pick me up. Their grand father Miguel Quintero has been keeping the register of ascents of the southern route for many, many years now. The kids were delighted to eat all my remaining energy bars which after 6 expeditions since November I was truly sick of.

It was a really nice experience to climb these two huge volcanoes within three days, and yes, all I used for both ascents were hiking poles and leather mountaineering boots. It's possible, you can "hike" the Mexican volcanoes if you catch them on the right condition, are willing to deal with less stable weather, and don't mind 3000 vertical feet of endless scree!

This was a great way to end my climbing season for Mexico and South America this year; what an amazing winter I had!

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