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Here is our camp on the valley. We were camped about
300 yds from the spot where the plane was to avoid avalanche
danger.
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Click photo for larger version
photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Climbing towards the headwall with a 60-65lb pack.
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Climbing the headwall. In order to avoid
the crevasse in front of me I had to go right and expose
myself and the team by going under that hanging glacier.
The debris of yesterday's avalanche is visible on the
picture. Unfortunately that hanging glacier was losing
car size chunks of Ice almost everyday day and at all
times of the day and night so it was impossible to predict
when the next one came. This was pretty much a game
of russian roulette.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Snow was very soft. Here you can see me post-holing
in thigh deep snow.
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This picture show the dangers
encountered in documenting this. Shown here is James photographing
Mario. Avalanche debris is visible, crevasses partially
visible and photographing all of this on an avalanche
prone slope!
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Hours later...higher up on
the headwall
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This is probably the view that Roberto
Canessa was looking at in 1972 when he saw the road.
As you can see on this picture the road is visible at
the foot of El Sosneado (the big mountain on the background),
though barely, Roberto was right, though it's understandable
why Nando didn't want to go back.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Here is a composite of three pictures to show their
view west when they finally reached the saddle (or
the "top of the mountain" as they refer
to on the book). Visible are the two peaks without
snow that they hoped would mark the end of the Andes
in Chile. On the forefront you can see the gullies
we had to descend to continue our trek to Chile. I
am standing on the crest of the Andes at 14,800',
the international border between Argentina and Chile.
Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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The morning of December 16 I took this picture. This
is the view to the East (the left side of the picture
is looking North-East, the center-East, and the right
SE). From this point, everywhere you see is snowcapped
peaks. We were on this spot (and beginning our descent
into Chile) on the exact same day as the survivors
but 34 years later.
Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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The view north was just as
discouraging as you can see from this picture of James
that I took.
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The view South reveals this summit (15,400'),
which is the peak I climbed on February 2005 (see Discovery)
to get a view of what Nando and Roberto had seen to
the west. My route of ascent in February was via the
ridge on the left side. This picture was taken from
the top of a 15,000 ft summit I climbed the same morning.
Visble on the picture is our camp on the saddle (and
James or Mario standing next to the tent). To the right
is Chile, to the left Argentina.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Since this was most likely another previously unclimbed
15,000ft summit on the Andes, I snapped this picture
of myself on the summit with El Brujo (a 16,000ft glaciated
mountain with notable technical ascents) on the background.
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Descending into Chile
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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This is the gulley we followed. One of my concerns
was that after 34 years of erosion (which is extreme
in this part of the Andes) we would be stopped by a
cliff. With the quality of rock being so rotten it could
be imposible to set up a rappel and we would have to
climb back up and try different routes until one worked.
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This gulley kept us busy for hours
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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...and at last I saw, with great relief an opening
without any technical obstacles.
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Mario and sliding down what is most
likely the same place Nando slid down uncontrollably.
Luckily for us the snow was very soft and easy to control.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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James Vlahos was an incredible person to have on this
trip. Not only is he a great photographer and writer
but a great person to climb with. Always easy going,
considerate, strong and positive. It was very rewarding
to become close friends during this incredible expedition.
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This was the valley that opened up after
the gullies. To give you a sense of the size of this
landscape look at Mario, visible as a small dot on the
snow. The survivors camped somewhere near the spot where
I took this picture, we continued on.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Later that evening we found water for the first time.
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After a long day (Dec 16, 2005) we finally
pitched camp not too far from where the survivors camped
on December 17, 1972.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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This is El Brujo. Nando and Roberto saw the sun iluminate
this peak until 9 pm. This gave them great hope that
the next valley was open to the west since apparently
no mountains were on the way to block the sun. This
picture was taken a few minutes before 9 pm on December
16, 2005
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The next morning we make our way to
the base of El Brujo.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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This is probably the first spot where they saw water.
After almost 70 days without any running water this
was an incredible experience for Nando and Roberto
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A great picture James took of me and
El Brujo
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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It was tricky to stay on the left side of the river.
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Roberto Canessa described the moment
when he saw the snow end as the difference between death
and life. He had seen all his friends die on the snow
and he thought to himself, I am out of the snow now,
I have to live.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Punching thru the snow would have turned deadly on
places like these. These rivers are very cold and very
strong!
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The valley that opened up was inmense!
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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This is probably the place where they camped on the
night of December 18
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The first signs of vegetation!
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Our route became very rocky. Loaded with such heavy
packs walking became very tricky over this rough terrain.
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At one point a rock dislodged under
my foot and I went down. My pack crushed me against
rocks that hit my sternum and cut my forearm. A hematoma
formed instantly on my arm which made it look like a
compound fracture; I was very relieved to see that it
was just a cut! A compund fracture days away from any
help can be a very serious matter if not fatal.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Later the inclination angle eased but the going was
still very tricky. Most rocks were moving under our
feet.
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The slope were I fell after having
crossed it.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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The first human signs.
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Guanaco (a relative to the Llamas)
bones.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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December 18,2005 The challenge of this day and the
next one are the hardest to convey. We no longer had
dangers of avalanches, crevasses or technical terrain
it was simply a physical challenge to cover miles an
miles with heavy packs, heat, sun, over terrain that's
tricky to walk on.
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There was absolutely no trail or paths
to follow, a lot of rocks and as we got lower a new
evil...brush!
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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...and bugs! Mario's new pet!
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Rocks, rocks and never-ending rocks!
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Something we didn't expect...a swamp!
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Mario and I at the end of another
tough day 12/18
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Before we camped we got a view of the next valley that
would leads us into Los Maitenes (still a long way to
go!)
12/19
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The next morning we headed to Los Maitenes.
It seemed ridiculous at that point to be carrying snow
shoes, -20 bags and down jackets in this heat! The elevation
was now under 5000'. This proved to be another brutal
day.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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There were still many tricky river crossings
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The heavy vegetation made it impassable
for us to continue. The only option I found was to follow
herd paths (that we were now encountering along with
a few cows grazing but no humans) that climbed up more
than 1500 vertical feet above the river and went above
this ridge line that would eventually drop us onto Los
Maitenes. It was very discouraging to have to climb
yet another mountain when we were so close to our destination.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Condors kept a close look at us while climbing.
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At last....Los Maitenes (Self Portrait).
Roberto and Nando saw a Chilean peasant tending his
cattle in this area. They were very lucky this peasant
(Sergio Catalan) was up there early in the season, otherwise
they would have found what we found...a deserted place!
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by Ricardo Peña
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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From L to R Ricardo Peña , Mario Perez and James
Vlahos in Los Maitenes on December 19, 2005 after completing
the first succesful re-tracing of Nando Parrado and
Roberto Canessa's historic escape from the Andes. They
reached Los Maitenes on December 21st, 1972.
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We arranged to have Mauricio Guerra,
a Chilean guide now good friend of mine, meet us at
Los Maitenes. He brought salami, cheese, wine and pasta
which we quicly devoured around a campfire. The stars
as always were incredible!
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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This is the hut where Roberto and Nando were taken
to by the chilean peasants. In this little outpost was
where they ate their first real meals in 70 days and
where for the first time they told other human beings
about their incredible ordeal!
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...and their night in this outpost was
spent in beds like these which were incredible luxury
for the survivors.
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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For us the work out wasn't over since we had to walk
another full day to reach the nearest road where a van
met us.
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The heat was very de-hydrating
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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But at least now we followed a path, and it was hiking
on a good trail.
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At last on December 20, 2005 our crossing
of the Andes on foot ended when we reached this road
and this vehicle.
We had a very different experience of San Fernando,
Chile than the survivors. While the survivors were welcomed
like heroes (the rest of the survivors back on the glacier
rescued by helicopters) we were greeted like illegal
criminals. As we reported to the local authorities to
have our passports stamped with the proper entry stamp
we were practically detained. That entry stamp was essential
to leave the country the next day otherwise we would
be detained at the airport and arrested.
The local authorities did not communicated regarding
the official permission we had arranged previously and
they found very suspicious that 2 Americans and 1 Argentinean
crossed the Andes on foot and showed up in their town.
We were not a pretty sight! 12 days without showering,
sunburned, bearded and exhausted! We were stuck in San
Fernando until December 21st when our flight was leaving
for the US.
With the help of the US Embassy, Eduardo Strauch in
Uruguay and Edgardo Barrios in Argentina we were able
to communicate to these bureaucrats that we were indeed
a National Geographic Expedition and that the Chilean
Government had given us permission to cross the Andes
into their country thru an otherwise "unauthorized
pass".
Happily we reached Santiago in time for our flights
and touched down on American Soil on December 22, 2005.
I wanted to kiss the immigration officer when he said
to me "Welcome to the United States"!
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Click photo for larger version
Photo by James Vlahos
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Our expedition showed the survivors climbed from 12,020ft
up to a pass 14,774' high. From there they descended
to 4,676' walking a total of 33.5 miles...very tough
miles! (nothing to do with trail running or hiking!).
We carried a lot more weight obviously, our trek was
more than 20 miles longer and we obviously had to climb
up to the 12,020' location from 7200' in Argentina.
In spite of that we had incredible advantages over them.
We were experienced mountaineers, we were trained and
healthy, we had plenty of food and great gear (perhaps
a bit too much, but we didn't know what to expect since
no one had repeated it before).
Overall we felt that what Nando and Roberto accomplished
in '72 was incredible!...a miracle? not in my personal
opinion, but one of the finest moments in human history
when two young men, against all odds, and showing incredible
bravery, defied the cruel environment and challenges
of the mountains and accomplished an unbelievable feat
and with that, saved their own lives as well as the
lives of their 14 mates stuck in the plane.
This escape and the troubles and challenges faced and
overcome by the 16 Andes Survivors always has, and will
continue to inspire me; and will always speak volumes
of that incredible thing called...the human spirit.
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