National Geographic Adventure Expedition
December, 2005

Part II
(go back to part I)

Read the extensive coverageof the Alive expedition in National Geographic Adventure magazine's April 2006 issue. Also see more photos on www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure


Here is our camp on the valley. We were camped about 300 yds from the spot where the plane was to avoid avalanche danger.

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photo by James Vlahos

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Photo by James Vlahos

Climbing towards the headwall with a 60-65lb pack.
Climbing the headwall. In order to avoid the crevasse in front of me I had to go right and expose myself and the team by going under that hanging glacier. The debris of yesterday's avalanche is visible on the picture. Unfortunately that hanging glacier was losing car size chunks of Ice almost everyday day and at all times of the day and night so it was impossible to predict when the next one came. This was pretty much a game of russian roulette.


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Photo by James Vlahos


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Photo by James Vlahos

Snow was very soft. Here you can see me post-holing in thigh deep snow.

This picture show the dangers encountered in documenting this. Shown here is James photographing Mario. Avalanche debris is visible, crevasses partially visible and photographing all of this on an avalanche prone slope!

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

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Photo by Ricardo Peña
Hours later...higher up on the headwall
This is probably the view that Roberto Canessa was looking at in 1972 when he saw the road. As you can see on this picture the road is visible at the foot of El Sosneado (the big mountain on the background), though barely, Roberto was right, though it's understandable why Nando didn't want to go back.

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Photo by Ricardo Peña


Here is a composite of three pictures to show their view west when they finally reached the saddle (or the "top of the mountain" as they refer to on the book). Visible are the two peaks without snow that they hoped would mark the end of the Andes in Chile. On the forefront you can see the gullies we had to descend to continue our trek to Chile. I am standing on the crest of the Andes at 14,800', the international border between Argentina and Chile.

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Photo by Ricardo Peña


The morning of December 16 I took this picture. This is the view to the East (the left side of the picture is looking North-East, the center-East, and the right SE). From this point, everywhere you see is snowcapped peaks. We were on this spot (and beginning our descent into Chile) on the exact same day as the survivors but 34 years later.

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Photo by Ricardo Peña


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Photo by Ricardo Peña
The view north was just as discouraging as you can see from this picture of James that I took.
The view South reveals this summit (15,400'), which is the peak I climbed on February 2005 (see Discovery) to get a view of what Nando and Roberto had seen to the west. My route of ascent in February was via the ridge on the left side. This picture was taken from the top of a 15,000 ft summit I climbed the same morning. Visble on the picture is our camp on the saddle (and James or Mario standing next to the tent). To the right is Chile, to the left Argentina.

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

Since this was most likely another previously unclimbed 15,000ft summit on the Andes, I snapped this picture of myself on the summit with El Brujo (a 16,000ft glaciated mountain with notable technical ascents) on the background.

Descending into Chile

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Photo by James Vlahos

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

This is the gulley we followed. One of my concerns was that after 34 years of erosion (which is extreme in this part of the Andes) we would be stopped by a cliff. With the quality of rock being so rotten it could be imposible to set up a rappel and we would have to climb back up and try different routes until one worked.

This gulley kept us busy for hours

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

...and at last I saw, with great relief an opening without any technical obstacles.

Mario and sliding down what is most likely the same place Nando slid down uncontrollably. Luckily for us the snow was very soft and easy to control.

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Photo by James Vlahos

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

James Vlahos was an incredible person to have on this trip. Not only is he a great photographer and writer but a great person to climb with. Always easy going, considerate, strong and positive. It was very rewarding to become close friends during this incredible expedition.

This was the valley that opened up after the gullies. To give you a sense of the size of this landscape look at Mario, visible as a small dot on the snow. The survivors camped somewhere near the spot where I took this picture, we continued on.

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

Later that evening we found water for the first time.

After a long day (Dec 16, 2005) we finally pitched camp not too far from where the survivors camped on December 17, 1972.


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Photo by James Vlahos


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Photo by James Vlahos

This is El Brujo. Nando and Roberto saw the sun iluminate this peak until 9 pm. This gave them great hope that the next valley was open to the west since apparently no mountains were on the way to block the sun. This picture was taken a few minutes before 9 pm on December 16, 2005

The next morning we make our way to the base of El Brujo.

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Photo by James Vlahos

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Photo by James Vlahos

This is probably the first spot where they saw water. After almost 70 days without any running water this was an incredible experience for Nando and Roberto

A great picture James took of me and El Brujo

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Photo by James Vlahos

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Photo by James Vlahos

It was tricky to stay on the left side of the river.

Roberto Canessa described the moment when he saw the snow end as the difference between death and life. He had seen all his friends die on the snow and he thought to himself, I am out of the snow now, I have to live.

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

Punching thru the snow would have turned deadly on places like these. These rivers are very cold and very strong!

The valley that opened up was inmense!

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

This is probably the place where they camped on the night of December 18

The first signs of vegetation!

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

Our route became very rocky. Loaded with such heavy packs walking became very tricky over this rough terrain.

At one point a rock dislodged under my foot and I went down. My pack crushed me against rocks that hit my sternum and cut my forearm. A hematoma formed instantly on my arm which made it look like a compound fracture; I was very relieved to see that it was just a cut! A compund fracture days away from any help can be a very serious matter if not fatal.

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

Later the inclination angle eased but the going was still very tricky. Most rocks were moving under our feet.

The slope were I fell after having crossed it.

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

The first human signs.

Guanaco (a relative to the Llamas) bones.

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Photo by Ricardo Peña


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Photo by James Vlahos

December 18,2005 The challenge of this day and the next one are the hardest to convey. We no longer had dangers of avalanches, crevasses or technical terrain it was simply a physical challenge to cover miles an miles with heavy packs, heat, sun, over terrain that's tricky to walk on.

There was absolutely no trail or paths to follow, a lot of rocks and as we got lower a new evil...brush!

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Photo by James Vlahos

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Photo by James Vlahos

...and bugs! Mario's new pet!

Rocks, rocks and never-ending rocks!

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Photo by James Vlahos

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Photo by James Vlahos

Something we didn't expect...a swamp!

Mario and I at the end of another tough day 12/18

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Photo by James Vlahos

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Photo by James Vlahos

Before we camped we got a view of the next valley that would leads us into Los Maitenes (still a long way to go!)
12/19

The next morning we headed to Los Maitenes. It seemed ridiculous at that point to be carrying snow shoes, -20 bags and down jackets in this heat! The elevation was now under 5000'. This proved to be another brutal day.

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Photo by James Vlahos

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

There were still many tricky river crossings

The heavy vegetation made it impassable for us to continue. The only option I found was to follow herd paths (that we were now encountering along with a few cows grazing but no humans) that climbed up more than 1500 vertical feet above the river and went above this ridge line that would eventually drop us onto Los Maitenes. It was very discouraging to have to climb yet another mountain when we were so close to our destination.

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

Condors kept a close look at us while climbing.

At last....Los Maitenes (Self Portrait). Roberto and Nando saw a Chilean peasant tending his cattle in this area. They were very lucky this peasant (Sergio Catalan) was up there early in the season, otherwise they would have found what we found...a deserted place!

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Photo by Ricardo Peña

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Photo by James Vlahos

From L to R Ricardo Peña , Mario Perez and James Vlahos in Los Maitenes on December 19, 2005 after completing the first succesful re-tracing of Nando Parrado and Roberto Canessa's historic escape from the Andes. They reached Los Maitenes on December 21st, 1972.

We arranged to have Mauricio Guerra, a Chilean guide now good friend of mine, meet us at Los Maitenes. He brought salami, cheese, wine and pasta which we quicly devoured around a campfire. The stars as always were incredible!


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Photo by James Vlahos


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Photo by James Vlahos

This is the hut where Roberto and Nando were taken to by the chilean peasants. In this little outpost was where they ate their first real meals in 70 days and where for the first time they told other human beings about their incredible ordeal!

...and their night in this outpost was spent in beds like these which were incredible luxury for the survivors.

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Photo by James Vlahos

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Photo by James Vlahos

For us the work out wasn't over since we had to walk another full day to reach the nearest road where a van met us.

The heat was very de-hydrating

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Photo by James Vlahos

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Photo by James Vlahos

But at least now we followed a path, and it was hiking on a good trail.

At last on December 20, 2005 our crossing of the Andes on foot ended when we reached this road and this vehicle.
We had a very different experience of San Fernando, Chile than the survivors. While the survivors were welcomed like heroes (the rest of the survivors back on the glacier rescued by helicopters) we were greeted like illegal criminals. As we reported to the local authorities to have our passports stamped with the proper entry stamp we were practically detained. That entry stamp was essential to leave the country the next day otherwise we would be detained at the airport and arrested.

The local authorities did not communicated regarding the official permission we had arranged previously and they found very suspicious that 2 Americans and 1 Argentinean crossed the Andes on foot and showed up in their town. We were not a pretty sight! 12 days without showering, sunburned, bearded and exhausted! We were stuck in San Fernando until December 21st when our flight was leaving for the US.

With the help of the US Embassy, Eduardo Strauch in Uruguay and Edgardo Barrios in Argentina we were able to communicate to these bureaucrats that we were indeed a National Geographic Expedition and that the Chilean Government had given us permission to cross the Andes into their country thru an otherwise "unauthorized pass".

Happily we reached Santiago in time for our flights and touched down on American Soil on December 22, 2005. I wanted to kiss the immigration officer when he said to me "Welcome to the United States"!


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Photo by James Vlahos


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Photo by James Vlahos

Our expedition showed the survivors climbed from 12,020ft up to a pass 14,774' high. From there they descended to 4,676' walking a total of 33.5 miles...very tough miles! (nothing to do with trail running or hiking!).

We carried a lot more weight obviously, our trek was more than 20 miles longer and we obviously had to climb up to the 12,020' location from 7200' in Argentina. In spite of that we had incredible advantages over them. We were experienced mountaineers, we were trained and healthy, we had plenty of food and great gear (perhaps a bit too much, but we didn't know what to expect since no one had repeated it before).

Overall we felt that what Nando and Roberto accomplished in '72 was incredible!...a miracle? not in my personal opinion, but one of the finest moments in human history when two young men, against all odds, and showing incredible bravery, defied the cruel environment and challenges of the mountains and accomplished an unbelievable feat and with that, saved their own lives as well as the lives of their 14 mates stuck in the plane.

This escape and the troubles and challenges faced and overcome by the 16 Andes Survivors always has, and will continue to inspire me; and will always speak volumes of that incredible thing called...the human spirit.